On the road: Week ten round-up
Distance travelled: 475km (6h 40m) from Pohara to Westport, up to Gentle Annie, and back down again to Reefton.
Audiobook on deck: Jonathon Strange and Mr Norrell, which could take some time as we are both falling asleep super fast.
Currently watching: Fullmetal Alchemist - we have four more episodes!
We were grateful for: Public access to Waitapu B’n’B hot pools for $15 each. We sat in a spa pool for two hours and had a good yarn with Cass and Jase, who live full-time in their caravan in the Golden Bay area after getting sick of the rental market. They met in Antarctica, which has to be the most awesome location/where did you meet story ever. It’s been so affirming to meet others who are on the road and have given up the rat-race lifestyle.
We missed: Getting to the Motueka Post Office in time to pick up a letter for Kath. When we called them later and asked to get the letter forwarded to Hokitika, as we weren’t coming back, they refused. Apparently, they need photo ID and a form filled in. An amazing lady at the Reefton Postal Agency tried to talk sense into them, but couldn’t. We then called the Hokitika Post Office and told them what was happening. Their response? “Oh, they’re being like THAT are they??!” Note to all travellers: Motueka Post Office isn’t exactly accommodating.
We learned: How to make salsa verde with tomatillos, after we found them at the Motueka Farmer’s Market. It turns out it is FLIPPING DELICIOUS, and we demolished the whole lot in two days. Now, we just need to find a way to get tomatillos reliably when they are in season.
Funniest moment: Kath being super concerned about how Kratos would do on a 16km training hike, and ending up in much worse shape than the (extremely sprightly) 11-year-old doggo. The next morning, Kratos was cartwheeling away for his breakfast, while Kath was hobbling around with enormous blisters!!
Best save: The awesome freedom camping spot here in Reefton which is right by the Inangahua River, has two flush toilets, a potable water tap to refill your tank, and a dump station to empty waste tanks. Also, it’s opposite the Reefton Hotel (see below for comment on their food!)
Best spend: The epic roast meal that Dan got at the Reefton Hotel (the “workingman’s size”) for $26. He finished it, but it honestly could have fed a family of three.
Best campsite: Gentle Annie Seaside Accommodation has been one of our favourite spots so far. It’s $20 a night for both of us, and there’s just fields of room for you to park up wherever. Everything works on an honesty system, which creates a really chill and friendly vibe, as does the pizza oven which is fired up every night for folks to communally make pizzas for dinner. Also, their chocolate and orange muffins are THE BOMB. If you’re on the West Coast, you’ve got to go here.
Most interesting fact we learned: That two 71-year-old twins forage for the botanicals that go into Reefton Distillery Co.’s gins. They head out into the bush and bring the stuff back fresh on the day it’s needed, and to be honest, you can totally tell. This is one of the best gins we have ever tasted. NZ craft for the win!
We recommend: Persistence! We finally saw the Starlink satellites come overhead while we were at Gentle Annie and man, it was worth it. If you would like to see them, there are several dedicated websites that you can plug your location into and it will tell you when you will get the best view.
Number of wrecked cars on the roadside: Just one, which is not bad going considering the gnarly nature of the roads around the Buller region.
Progress made towards our 20 in 2020: The 16km training hike which is building us up for the Waikaremoana hike in early April. Not much swimming action for us this week, which is highly unusual.
